2017 May - Flowers and veggies do mix

2017 May - Flowers and vegetables : Beauty and the eats

*Notes from the Old Ottawa South Garden Club

At the final meeting of the season for the Old Ottawa South Garden Club (OOSGC), Master Gardener Judith Cox gave a presentation on how to grow flowers and vegetables together for beauty and food. From childhood, Judith has worked in gardens. Gardening has become a source of pleasure and Judith is happy to share her knowledge, experience and enthusiasm through presentations and helping with Master Gardeners’ advice clinics.

Judith started by talking about how to build a vegetable garden by giving attention to the soil, sun, water and maintenance.

Having good and safe soil for growing vegetables and other edibles can be helped by knowing how the property was used and trying to ensure that chemicals, including salts, do not damage the soil or the safety of produce (see www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/resource/soillabs.htm). The soil pH can affect how well certain plants can thrive. Testing kits are available and distilled water should be used for accurate results. The importance of compost for a well-balanced soil as well as several soil additives to adjust soil pH were mentioned.

While sunny locations are ideal for many vegetables and flowers, lower light levels are fine for many plants and some techniques can be used to enhance success. In her sunny garden, Judith enjoys planting sunflowers to create a great backdrop for various vegetables and herbs. She plants lovage, whose flowers attract bees and have a lovely fragrance. She tolerates a few dandelions, since their early flowers bring bees to the garden and the greens can be added to salads.  Partial shade is fine for many leafy greens and root vegetables, and extends the growing season for lettuces. In shade, Judith grows lettuces with begonias and pansies. These flowers, along with violets and sicely are sweet and flavourful. To raise plants so that they can get more light, planters can be used that have good drainage and are food safe, with no treated wood.

Judith talked about the importance of water in the garden for various plants, animals, including pollinators and shared some techniques for creating ecosystems. She recommended using water from rain barrels and said that water softeners should be by-passed. When people are away or to make watering easier, she suggested grouping pots together, doing team gardening with a neighbour, or other arrangements.

Pruning maintenance, fertilizer maintenance and pest control were discussed. Frequent pruning not only makes herb plants sturdier but provides tasty, tender leaves. Judith recommended working compost into the soil when planting as well as weekly watering with compost tea or diluted fish emulsions. For pest control, Judith suggests using the habits of the pests against them. For example, portions of old hoses can be set out where earwigs and slugs will seek refuge after their nightly foraging. In the morning, they can be knocked off into soapy water.

Judith appreciates heritage plants for their flavours, colours and shapes, but she also recognizes the advantages of recent hybrids. She discussed some of her favourite fruits, vegetables and companion flowers including a blueberry tomato, and some less common edible plants. For example, marigolds are useful to have since they attract parasitic wasps that attack pests but they also attract pollinators. Their scent deters squirrels and other animals. They are excellent companion plants to tomatoes; they have attractive flowers; and their petals can be separated and sprinkled in salads. Judith recommended hardy thornless roses such as John Davis roses, to attract pollinators to the vegetable garden, and later produce rose hips for jams and jellies. Okra has hibiscus-like flowers before fruiting. Purple podded pole beans are decorative, take up limited space in the garden, and produce tasty beans.

Judith concluded her talk with information on services provided by Master Gardeners, including their website at mgottawa.ca and helpline at mgoc_helpline@yahoo.ca.

A tour of Mosaic-Gatineau in Jacques Cartier Park is being arranged for July 7/17. People interested in joining this tour could email jill.hopkins@icloud.com for information and details. 

Marilyn Whitaker grew up in Old Ottawa South. She now operates Oasescapes

2017 Feb - Colour your garden world with perennials

2017 Feb - Colour your garden world  with perennials
*Notes from the Old Ottawa South Garden Club by Marilyn Whitaker

Nancy McDonald is a life-long gardener and the current Executive 
Director of the Master Gardeners of Ottawa-Carleton. Her presentation drew on her gardening experience and reading, and offered many tips and suggestions, along with photos of colourful blooms. These made people eager to move past the snow drifts of the February evening and try new plants and combinations of plants in the coming gardening season.

Nancy suggested several ways for people to assess the perennials in their gardens with the intent of having plants which live up to their expectations.

It is helpful to look at combinations of plants and how various colours and textures might match or complement other plants. Using garden journals or calendars to record information, such as blooming times, colours, textures or gaps in blooms, helps with research, and making plans and adjustments in the garden. Visiting public gardens can also provide information and inspiration for the gardener.

To provide the colour and blooms which people seek in the garden, Nancy recommended using several varieties of plants which are reliable performers. She highlighted tips to get the best from perennials, such as: planting perennials in the right location for their needs; improving the soil with organic matter; being attentive to the watering needs of plants as they are settling in and when they are established; and deadheading flowers to encourage blooms later in the season.

Using a colour wheel, Nancy talked about colour design with perennials. She showed examples of gardens using various combinations of colours, namely: primary colours; complementary colours; analogous colours which are next to each other on the wheel, such as gardens with yellow, orange and red flowers; tone-on-tone colours such as in white gardens or pink gardens. Some of the different effects of colour combinations or colour intensities were discussed, like the calming effect of cool colours or monotones. She suggested that gardeners should create drifts of colours rather than sprinkles of various colours here and there. While the backdrop colours of buildings and fences should be considered, Nancy stressed that gardeners should choose colour combinations which please them.

Lists of perennials, along with photos, offered suggestions for colourful plants in shady or sunny areas as well as plants for the midsummer Ottawa garden. Nancy reminded people of the various shades of green and different textures which can provide interest and drama in the garden. White is a colour which can capture the eye, particularly at certain times of the day and evening, though Nancy advised not to overuse it in very sunny areas to avoid a “washed out” effect. She showed examples of pops of colour and suggested that people repeat a favourite colour in various seasons as well as use combinations of plants to echo or repeat colours. Some other suggestions included: placing small, interesting blooms close to walkways where they can best be appreciated; using tall perennials, such as Aruncus dioicus (Goat’s Beard), to help hide or draw attention away from certain areas of the garden.

Nancy concluded her talk by discussing the use of perennial plant colours to attract pollinators. For example, bees are attracted by blues and purples while red is particularly attractive to hummingbirds. A diversity of blooms throughout the season is important to attract various beneficial insects and butterflies to the garden.

The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be on Monday, March 13, 2017, at 7 pm at the Old Ottawa South Community Centre (The Firehall) at 260 Sunnyside Avenue. Dave Dunn will talk on Shining a Light on Shade. Dave has extensive gardening experience as a creator and partner in Rideau Woodland Ramble Inc., near Merrickville. In 2015, it received the Canadian Garden Council Destination Garden Centre of the Year Award. 

2016 April - Birds and Bees

2016 April - Gardening with wildlife 
 *Notes from the Old Ottawa South Garden Club by Colin Ashford


On a rather damp evening following the first really warm day of the year, Master Gardener Rebecca Last gave a thoughtful and extensive presentation entitled “Gardening with Wildlife” to the Old Ottawa South Garden Club.  Rebecca has been gardening on-and-off since she was eight.  Her small suburban garden is certified by the Canadian Wildlife Federation as a wildlife habitat.

Rebecca noted that the main advantages of attracting wildlife to an urban garden are: contribution to protection of species (many that under threat from modern agricultural practices); improved pest-control; education; entertainment; and a better connection to nature.  However there are cons: the necessity for “systems thinking”; a slightly messier aesthetic; and you don’t get to choose who visits!  Rebecca continued with the three key elements of a wildlife-friendly garden: organic, low-impact gardening (composting, companion planting, water harvesting, and integrated pest management); systems thinking (seasonal and multi-year succession, stacking, and design elements); and key design-elements (continuous blooming, intense planting, and water features).  Rebecca recommended a sharing approach to pest management: although caterpillars may feed on some of your plants, many will change into beautiful butterflies.  Nevertheless, she did mention the not-to-be-tolerated rogue’s gallery including the red lily beetle, the emerald ash borer, and the hated Japanese beetle—all to be squashed without compunction.  Rebecca then moved on to discussing plant selection and emphasized selection for continuous blooming throughout the season, dense planting to provide food and shelter for wildlife, and avoiding double-bloom cultivars (whose nectars are hard to access).  She also noted that trees such as linden, basswood, and bur oak can provide food for insects and birds, as do shrubs such as dogwood, chokecherry, and serviceberry.  She also recommended a number of herbaceous plants that are good for attracting insects, birds (and even some that are good for attracting mammals); the list includes: asters (especially native species); sunflowers; winter savory; purple coneflowers (native single blooms); and goldenrod.

Attracting birds into an urban garden requires different feeders for different kinds of birds: suet feeders to attract woodpeckers; platform feeders to attract ground-feeding birds; cylindrical feeders stocked with niger or thistle seeds to attract smaller birds such as finches; and, of course, specialized humming-bird feeders. Water (especially the sound of running water) is important in attracting insects, birds, and amphibians.  An artificial waterfall with steps so birds can take a splash bath is ideal, but a static birdbath can work as well—but do keep it clean.  Rebecca then spoke about shelter for wildlife: bee houses to attract mason bees and solitary bees; and well-designed bird boxes that can be cleaned out each fall.

Rebecca concluded her talk with pointers to useful resources such as the Canadian Wildlife Federation and their backyard certification scheme; Monarch Watch and their Monarch Waystation program; and, of course, Master Gardeners of Ottawa.

The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be on Monday 8 May at the Firehall when Master Gardener Judith Cox will try to persuade us that Flowers and Veggies Do Mix. On Saturday, May 13th at 10 am in Brewer Park, the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will have a plant exchange and sale.

https://www.nwf.org/News-and-Magazines/National-Wildlife/Animals/Archives/2016/Bees.aspx

https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/press-releases/study-strengthens-link-between-neonicotinoids-and-collapse-of-honey-bee-colonies/

2016 Nov - Bring spring into your home

2016 Nov - Bring spring into your home 

* Notes from the Garden Club by Marilyn Whitaker

The last meeting in 2016 of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club (OOSGC) featured a presentation to inspire people to prepare bulbs and bring spring flowers into their homes. Jill Hopkins, a club member who operates Clovellys Interior & Garden Design, has been a serious gardener for 25 years and shared her passion and techniques for forcing bulbs.

Each fall Jill purchases a variety of bulbs in anticipation of blooms at Christmas time as well as blooms in the early April to herald the arrival of spring and summer. Jill noted that bulbs should be large and firm, and then kept in paper bags in a darkened area until needed. For the early spring blooms, there should be a cool storage space. Ideally, this could be an unheated attached garage, cold cellar or dedicated refrigerator. Unglazed clay pots are the best containers and Jill recommends bulb pans that are wide and shallow.

Starting in late January, the bulb pans are filled with soil and the bulbs arranged so that they are close but not touching. The bulbs are pressed into the soil and then sprinkled with more soil. The container is covered with a heavy clay saucer and left in the cool storage area. Once in February, the bulbs should be watered and allowed to drain, then covered and stored again. At the start of April, the bulbs are ready to emerge and can be brought out into the light. In just a few days, the plants begin to bud and then bloom. Accompanying photos show how quickly the blooms burst forth. Forcing short-stemmed flowers, such as grape hyacinth (Muscari), Tulipa tarda and snowdrops, can be especially successful.

When growing daffodils, Jill likes to re-pot some daffodils into pots that are placed in outside urns. She finds that they last especially well outdoors. Even if they get coated in ice, the daffodils will recover and continue blooming.

Jill also spoke about some ways to combine a variety of forced bulbs and boughs of flowering shrubs. For example, boughs of forsythia can be displayed with daffodils. Pussy willows can be combined with early flowering bulbs. Another technique that produces beautiful results involves placing paper whites in white gravel or stones and then moistening them. Fragrant flowers will soon follow.

November is the time when amaryllis bulbs can be started indoors for their showy flowers at Christmas. It is also when allium bulbs can be planted outdoors in anticipation of their dramatic blooms for several weeks in late spring and early summer.

After being forced, bulbs will not rebloom soon. Many can be placed in the garden, and within a few years will begin to bloom on their own.

Also part of the evening was a sale and silent auction of floral materials and bouquets. Another club member, Diana Carr, along with her sister organized this event. Both have studied at the Jane Packer School in London, England and now operate a business as the Flower Girls (see www.2flowergirls.com).

Several beautiful arrangements were available with a portion of the funds raised going toward future activities of the club.
At the next meeting of the OOSGC, on Monday, January 9, 2017, Master Gardener Mary Ann Van Berlo will present a virtual tour of some of the gardens and other features of the Lake District and the Scottish Borders. People are also encouraged to bring garden related tools and books for a fund-raising sale.

About the Author
Marilyn Whitaker, founder and director of Oasescapes, is a graduate of the Horticultural Industries Program (with Honours), Algonquin College, and also completed courses in the Horticulture Technician Program, Algonquin College. She has a Masters of Environmental Studies from York University. Marilyn started work as a researcher and planner on residential issues, becoming a senior manager with the federal government. Gardening has been a long-time past-time. As a volunteer with the Sandy Hill Tree Group, she is working with the city and property owners to enhance green spaces in this downtown neighbourhood.  Marilyn Whitaker grew up in Old Ottawa South.

2017 May 14 - Social Media cross linking

2017 May 14 - Social Media cross linking

Old Ottawa South Garden Club
Social networking is vital for every business, person or club that wants to survive in this modern era.  Traditional methods of communications have become secondary and people are looking for faster methods of deciding where and with home they are spending their time.  For this reason The Old Ottawa South Garden Club is using multiple social media access points to reach a wider audience and share our love of gardening with them.

1 - Curator Club (curatorclub.com) 
http://curatorclub.com/the-annual-garden-notes-from-the-old-ottawa-south-garden-club/

2 - Pinterest (Created in May 2017)

https://www.pinterest.com/OldOttawaSouthGardenClub

3 - Facebook (Created in May 2017)
https://www.facebook.com

4 - Blogger (Created in May 2017)


5 - Eventbrite (Created in May 2017)

6 - Artlist (Created in May 2017)

7 - 

2017 May 07 - How to make a Bee Hotel

2017 May 07 - How to make a Bee Hotel

There are a wide variety of bee hotels for tube-nesting bees on the market that range widely in quality, structure and size. However it is easy & cheap to make your own bee hotel. One way of doing this is illustrated in the below diagram.

Things you need :

A - 2 litre plastic drink bottle

B - A pair of scissors

C - A hacksaw or pair of secateuars

D - A wooden fence, shed wall or wooden post

E - About  15 meters of bamboo or other hollow/pithy stems

F - About 1 meter of string

G - 2 nails or screws 

H - 2 metal washers

I - A hammer or screwdriver

Constructing your bee hotel :

1. Take an empty plastic bottle and cut 15cm off the bottom to use for your hotel with a pair of scissors. The example diagram uses a 2 litre bottle, but other sizes will work equally well, you just have to adjust the amount of stems used accordingly.

2. Carefully make a small hole in the bottom of the half-bottle with the scissors, making sure you point the end of the scissors away from others and all parts of your body. Thread through some strong string as shown.  Your bee hotel must be constructed by an adult. Take extra care when using tools. You must use all safety precautions as recommended by your tool manufacturers.

3. Collect about 15m (16.4 yards) total length of dry hollow or pithy stems. Stems that work well include dead Bamboo, Elder, Raspberry, thistle, dock, Cow Parsley or other hollow or pithy stems. The larger the range of types & diameter of stems, the larger the number of species that will use your hotel.

4. Cut up the stems into 15cm (6 inch) lengths using a hacksaw or pair of secateurs, depending on the toughness of the stems.

5. Tightly pack the stems into the half bottle. If the stems are too loose birds will destroy the hotel while looking for food. Your bee hotel is now complete.

6. Choose where to put your bee hotel. Bees like it to be as sunny as possible, & it helps if it is sheltered from the wind. Therefore a sunny south-facing fence or wall is ideal. East-facing (sunny in the morning) is the next best thing, and Westfacing (sunny in the afternoon) is not too bad. Bee hotels will also do well on masonry or stone walls, but you will need a drill, screws, & rawlplugs to do this.

The hotel should be at least 1m off the ground so that it is not shaded by vegetation. Putting it at head-height is ideal as it makes it easy to watch the bees using the hotel.

7. When you have chosen your spot, fix in two nails or screws level with each other on a horizontal plane a few cm/inches apart. It often helps to hold the bee hotel in place if metal washers are used to create a larger head on the nail or screw.

8. Tie the bee hotel in place making sure it is level, or the open end very slightly sloping downwards to drain water away.

When to install your bee hotel :

Ideally the bee hotel should be put in place by Mid-March and taken down and stored in an unheated shed or outhouse at the beginning of October to keep it out of the worst of the elements to extend its life-span (this is not essential though). If you take it down for the winter, make sure you remember to put it back up again next spring so that the bees can emerge outside!

This text courtesy of 
https://www.opalexplorenature.org/sites/default/files/7/file/How-to-make-a-bee-hotel.pdf

For more on How to make and manage a BEE HOTEL

Please also visit : 

http://www.foxleas.com/make-a-bee-hotel.asp

2017 April - Gardening with Wildlife

2017 April - Gardening with Wildlife

* Notes From the Old Ottawa South Garden Club By Colin Ashford

On a rather damp evening following the first really warm day of the year, Master Gardener Rebecca Last gave a thoughtful and extensive presentation entitled “Gardening with Wildlife” to the Old Ottawa South Garden Club.  Rebecca has been gardening on-and-off since she was eight.  Her small suburban garden is certified by the Canadian Wildlife Federation as a wildlife habitat.

Rebecca noted that the main advantages of attracting wildlife to an urban garden are: contribution to protection of species (many that under threat from modern agricultural practices); improved pest-control; education; entertainment; and a better connection to nature.  However there are cons: the necessity for “systems thinking”; a slightly messier aesthetic; and you don’t get to choose who visits!

Rebecca continued with the three key elements of a wildlife-friendly garden: organic, low-impact gardening (composting, companion planting, water harvesting, and integrated pest management); systems thinking (seasonal and multi-year succession, stacking, and design elements); and key design-elements (continuous blooming, intense planting, and water features).  Rebecca recommended a sharing approach to pest management: although caterpillars may feed on some of your plants, many will change into beautiful butterflies.

Nevertheless, she did mention the not-to-be-tolerated rogue’s gallery including the red lily beetle, the emerald ash borer, and the hated Japanese beetle—all to be squashed without compunction.  Rebecca then moved on to discussing plant selection and emphasized selection for continuous blooming throughout the season, dense planting to provide food and shelter for wildlife, and avoiding double-bloom cultivars (whose nectars are hard to access).  She also noted that trees such as linden, basswood, and bur oak can provide food for insects and birds, as do shrubs such as dogwood, chokecherry, and serviceberry.  She also recommended a number of herbaceous plants that are good for attracting insects, birds (and even some that are good for attracting mammals); the list includes: asters (especially native species); sunflowers; winter savory; purple coneflowers (native single blooms); and goldenrod.

Attracting birds into an urban garden requires different feeders for different kinds of birds: suet feeders to attract woodpeckers; platform feeders to attract ground-feeding birds; cylindrical feeders stocked with niger or thistle seeds to attract smaller birds such as finches; and, of course, specialized humming-bird feeders. Water (especially the sound of running water) is important in attracting insects, birds, and amphibians.  An artificial waterfall with steps so birds can take a splash bath is ideal, but a static birdbath can work as well—but do keep it clean.  Rebecca then spoke about shelter for wildlife: bee houses to attract mason bees and solitary bees; and well-designed bird boxes that can be cleaned out each fall.

Rebecca concluded her talk with pointers to useful resources such as the Canadian Wildlife Federation and their backyard certification scheme; Monarch Watch and their Monarch Waystation program; and, of course, Master Gardeners of Ottawa.

The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be on Monday 8 May at the Firehall when Master Gardener Judith Cox will try to persuade us that Flowers and Veggies Do Mix. On Saturday, May 13th at 10 am in Brewer Park, the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will have a plant exchange and sale.

2017 March - Shade Gardens

2017 March - Creating and Enjoying Shade Gardens

* Notes From the Old Ottawa South Garden Club By Carole Love

At the recent meeting of the Old Ottawa Garden club the presenter, Dave Dunn, spoke about “Shining a Light on Shade”.  Dave has extensive gardening experience as a creator of, and partner in, Rideau Woodland Ramble Inc., a garden centre and display gardens situated on seven acres of woodland near Merrickville. In 2015, the Ramble received the “Canadian Garden Centre Destination of the Year” award.  Almost all the gardens at Rideau Woodland Ramble have some context of shade and woodland. Dave’s partner, Robert Caron, helped out by answering some gardening questions.

Shade does offer challenges:  it can range from deep shade to light, and from dry to wet.  Dave noted plants respond to soil and moisture and what to plant is driven by an awareness of those growing conditions.  In fact Dave kept plants about one metre away from the house; it has a roof overhang preventing rain and light from reaching plants closer to the building.

Dave, gardener and artist, took the group on a shady walk through the ramble via a multitude of photos while he pointed out particular plants and features.  In much of the forested area there is dense shade.  There are many rare and unusual plants in the seven acres with trails leading to the different gardens.  In natural shade colour and light are key.  Astilbe (great for damp shade) and hydrangeas (grow in both sun and shade) planted along the deeply-shaded side of a pathway through the woods added an accent of colour—with the hydrangeas repeated for artistic effect on the other, sunnier side of the path.  Dave said the challenges of growing plants were always more extreme in the shade.  To add interest he likes to include plants in pots and works of art. In an area of deep shade Dave pointed out two huge pots—with ferns, lamium, and the splash of colour from bright red begonias.

As one proceeds along the trails one can spy numerous sculptures. There was “Ted”, a giant red-and-yellow metallic rooster; in the morning one can hear a chorus of sound from roosters living on a nearby farm.  A seven-foot high sculpture of a solitary grizzly catches the eye as it stands tall and straight.  Dave pointed out how plants with golden, white, or variegated leaves added a spot of light against the darkness of the leaves of conifers and other evergreens.  A patch of Rudbeckia, growing as far as they were adapted, added a splash of golden yellow under dark green conifers.  Dave pointed out that Norway spruce with red tips were a good choice of conifer for partial shade.

In an area where plants did not thrive, Dave had a Zen garden, simply an expanse of mulch—where a few shimmering blue balls added colour and interest.  While grasses such as Miscanthus get lanky and may tend to flop in shade, they still add a subtle contrast of texture. Dave noted that helsinki varieties of rhododendrons were hardy as compared to English varieties and showed up nicely under maple trees.  Hellebores don’t like being under large evergreens—the soil is too acidic—but also did well under maples.  Dave pointed out the interest of the enormous compound leaves on a devil’s walking stick; the gigantic leaves attach to the stalk and, when they fall, what is left resembles a stick.  Wildflowers are almost always good in shade; Dave thought of yellow lady’s slippers and red trilliums.  Dave considered turtle heads great plants for areas with dry shade as they offered later blooms.  Of course hostas are remarkable for doing well in shady areas and there are thousands of varieties—blue forms maintaining their colour in deep shade as they will green up in the sun.  Dave noted 'New Gold' hemlock emerges yellow in the spring, and then changes to green.  For fragrance one can include plants such as viburnum. Korean maples offer a similar feature of red leaves to add a pop of colour in the fall—while being hardier than the more familiar Japanese maples.
A fall image showed orange and red fallen leaves covering a trail adding a sparkle of colour.  The vistas Dave showed were lush and green—giving all something to dream about given the outdoor scenes these days.  For Dave designing a garden could be considered like painting, with the plants the palette and the ground and sky the canvass.

The Rideau Woodland Ramble gardens are open to the public. Woven into this setting is a garden centre that showcases and sells the plants evident in the garden collections. Both Dave and Robert have a deep knowledge of their plants. The Ramble can be reached at 613-258-3797, or www.rideauwoodlandramble.com.

The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be on Monday April 10 at 7:00 p.m. at the Old Ottawa South Community Centre (The Firehall), 260 Sunnyside Avenue when Rebecca Last will tell us how gardening for wildlife can be both a challenge and a joy—requiring different approaches (and even mindset) from those of regular gardening. Rebecca Last will take us through certification of, and strategies for managing native plants in, a wildlife garden.

2017 January - A Virtual Visit to the Lake District

2017 January - A Virtual Visit to the Lake District 
* Notes From the Old Ottawa South Garden Club By Colin Ashford

On a particularly cold night, and with their gardens under a few feet of snow, the members of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club welcomed MaryAnn Van Berlo who reminded them of warmer days in a milder climate with an armchair tour of the Lake District and the Scottish Borders.  MaryAnn is an avid gardener and member of the Master Gardeners of Ottawa-Carleton and editor of their newsletter “Trowel Talk”.  Her garden, “Van Berlo Gardens” is 2.4 acres located in Maitland near the St. Lawrence River.

In 2014 MaryAnn joined a party of gardening enthusiasts, led by Marjorie Mason, that toured gardens, castles, stately homes, and villages in the Lake District and the Scottish Borders.  Getting into the local vernacular, the tour began with a “coach” trip to Levens Hall in Cumbria and its world-famous topiary gardens—laid out in 1690, the gardens still retain many of their original features.  From Levens Hall, it was on to Hawkshead and Beatrix Potter’s home (Hill Top), and then to Holehired Gardens (17 acres of botanical gardens managed by Lakeland Horticultural Society and boasting some 300 types of hydrangeas) and a cruise across Lake Windermere whilst noting the stately homes nestled in the rolling hills.  From Lake Windermere, their itinerary took them into Scotland proper and the curious Garden of Cosmic Speculation in Dumfries.  The balance of the tour took them backwards and forwards across the border visiting ruined castles and abbeys, a Roman fort, Hadrian’s Wall, Alnwick Castle and its magnificent fountains, Lindisfarne (across the causeway), and the imposing Floors Castle. The tour finished with a visit to the Edinburgh Botanical Gardens and Dumfries House in Ayrshire.

In summing up the personal side of the thirteen-day trip, MaryAnn mentioned the good food they enjoyed and, even thought the area is notoriously rainy, she only reported one day of light mist.

The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be on Monday 13 February 2017 at 7:00 p.m. at the Old Ottawa South Community Centre (The Firehall), 260 Sunnyside Avenue when Master Gardener Nancy McDonald will challenge us to make a statement in our gardens by embracing innovative choices of perennials.

2016 October - Don't Stop Yet—Fall Tasks

2016 October  -  Don't Stop Yet—Fall Tasks
* Notes From the Old Ottawa South Garden Club - By Colin Ashford

The Old Ottawa South Garden Club welcomed the return of an old friend, Mary Reid, of Green Thumb Garden Centre (www.greenthumbgarden.ca) to talk about fall gardening.  Mary is a Certified Landscape Professional and, in addition to running her garden centre, she volunteers at Master Gardeners and teaches at local schools and garden clubs like ours.

The continuing warm fall has lengthened the growing season and allowed us to put off traditional fall jobs in the garden until later in the season.  The meeting was held in the middle of October and Mary noted that it was not too late to plant either container-grown plants (such as perennials, deciduous shrubs, vines, or roses) or transplants, but to make sure to water them in—every day for two weeks, then once a week until the ground is frozen. Spring- or earlier-blooming perennials can be divided now but fall- or late-summer-blooming perennials are better divided earlier in the season; ornamental grasses are best divided in the spring.  Again, Mary noted that it was not too late to plant bulbs outdoors—for as long as the ground is workable.  Mary recommended buying healthy bulbs: firm and fat; damage- and disease-free; and preferably in bulk.  Tulips can be planted up until the ground is frozen (and, in fact, the later the better).  As a rule of thumb, Mary recommended planting bulbs in small clumps (small bulbs—9-13 in a clump; large bulbs—5-7 in a clump) at a depth of three times the height of the bulb in well-drained soil. Burying a piece of chicken wire over the bulbs, applying blood meal, or planting fritillaria nearby can help to deter squirrels.  Placing a board over the plantings until freeze-up will also help.  Bulbs for forcing indoors should be kept in the beer fridge (away from apples and pears) until ready for planting in pots in November.

Mary recommended that herbaceous perennials, such as iris and phlox, can be cut back to two inches above the soil to reduce overwintering pests and diseases; there is no need to cut back evergreen perennials such as candy-tuft and Japanese spurge or those prone to heaving such as coral bells. If the cuttings are not diseased, they can go into the compost heap else they should be put out as yard waste (commercial composting kills most diseases and pests). Ornamental grasses provide interest in the garden during the winter, but need to be cleared after heavy falls of snow (or tied up to avoid being flattened by snow).

Once plants have been cut back, compost can be easily applied (making sure to remove any thick layer of mulch first) and letting the winter pull the compost into the soil.  Mary noted that it’s too late to fertilize or over-seed a lawn—wait until spring.

Mary next turned her attention to deciduous shrubs with the perplexing comment that it was both too early and too late to prune.  However, she explained that pruning spurs new growth and that tender new growth is susceptible to frost damage at this time of year. Mary recommended, in general, pruning shrubs just after flowering, for example: lilac in the spring and coralberry in late fall.  Trees can be protected from damage by rabbits with tree wrap or a foul-smelling compound such as Skoot.  Mary noted that vines should be firmly affixed to their trellis and vines such as Jackmani clematis (that blooms on new wood) should be pruned, next spring, to six to twelve inches above the soil and to include three buds.

Finally Mary gave some advice on wrapping evergreens to protect them from desiccation.  She recommended not to fully wrap evergreens since this can cause them to overheat on a sunny winter’s day, but to rather build a frame with stakes around the plant, wrapping burlap around the stakes and leaving the top open for good air circulation.


The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be on Monday 14 November when Jill Hopkins, an avid gardener, will focus on the potting and forcing of spring bulbs to deliver a burst of blooms in the spring.

2016 May - The Annual Garden

2016 May - The Annual Garden 
* Notes from the Old Ottawa South Garden Club - By Carole Love


According to Robert Wolodarski, Manager of Perennials and Greenhouse Operations at Artistic Landscape Designs (www.artisticlandscape.on.ca), annuals are incorporated in perennial gardens for many reasons. They add colour, fill gaps in newly planted perennial gardens, and create colourful containers. Annuals flower from early in the season till practically the first frost (some resistant to about 3°C). One can experiment as every year there are new varieties and colours. If one starts from seed, they can be inexpensive. Plants grown from cuttings (F1 generation plants) will be true in colour and size for a consistent, uniform look whereas plants started from seed will exhibit some variety—part of the fun of growing plants. 

Robert said, in general, when one inter-plants annuals with perennials, the annuals need more water. Annuals do not have an extensive root system and will wilt if they dry out. In containers with perennials, the annuals will need an extra shot of water. As to feeding, Robert suggested fertilizers with a high middle number such as 15-30-15 to promote flowering. Some slow-release granular fertilizers can be applied once in a season. However, Robert still likes to occasionally use water-soluble fertilizer. 

Robert shared news about annuals new on the market and others plants he particularly liked. He had two trays of intriguing plants and images of vibrantly coloured plants accompanied his talk.

Robert included plants often grown as annuals in this area– though not strictly annuals. Canna ‘Cleopatra’, for example, displays eye-catching flowers in sun or semi-shade and can be used in containers. Growing up to 6 feet, it appreciates regular watering and fertilizing. The flashy flowers last throughout the summer —pinching spent flowers promotes continued bloom. Lift tubers in the autumn. Like most plants with darker foliage, Hibiscus ‘Little Zin’ grows mostly in semi-shade. It has inconspicuous maroon flowers and reaches about 1.5 feet. Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed Susan) is a biennial with tremendous yellow flowers. One can let it go to seed and have plants in a variety of colours the following year. Robert showed a bright orange calla lily. Calla lily grows about 18” high and can take semi-shade. Blooms are long lasting, produced throughout the summer, and come in a variety of colours. Tubers can be dug after the first frost. Succulents like full sun and need minimal care; they can be used in beds as well as indoors and can be a perennial contribution to containers.

Robert also talked about true annuals. Butterfly daisies have flowers in the yellow range and tolerate dry areas. Pinching spent flowers encourages more blooms; cutting back, perhaps in late July, encourages new growth and plants bloom on new growth. Robert talked about new coleus colours. Coleus ‘Campfire’ has red-coloured foliage and can take some dryness; morning sun and afternoon shade are recommended. Coleus ‘Ruffles Copper’ has multi-coloured foliage. Robert showed celosia with gorgeous yellow and orange flowers. Growing about 36” high, celosia blooms in sun and semi-shade all summer. Another celosia had a bright red odd-shaped blossom; Robert said it was actually a virus which created the shape. Robert presented an Ipomoea (morning glory) growing as a hanging basket; the plant does best in semi-shade. Helichrysum (strawflowers) may grow in a dry part of the garden. Bracteanthea Jumbo is a newer variety that looks almost like a daisy with unusual orange-pink flowers. Robert showed a stunning Amaranthus (love lies bleeding) with deep red flowers spilling over a retaining wall.

Lobelias like shade or semi-shade; for a trailing lobelia, Robert said to seek out plants with blue flowers that have a “white eye”. Dragon wing begonias, more robust than the common wax begonias, are excellent in planters or as bedding plants. For a sunny dry spot, Bergenia is excellent. Leaves take on a beautiful red or bronze colouring in the fall and flower colours range from the palest pinks to red or dark purple. A prolific bloomer, the trailing habit of petunia ‘Million Bells’ makes it great in hanging baskets, containers, or as a small-area ground cover. Portulaca gives a rock-garden look; they self-seed. While gerbera don’t last through the summer, they have bold flowers and show nicely in planters. Cathedral salvia grows tall and straight and is available with blue, deep blue and white flowers. Zinnias are disease resistant, come in many colours, and tolerate full sun and dry areas. Colourful marigolds are excellent to interplant with vegetables, as they repel slugs and aphids. Ornamental cabbage offers fall colours and combined with asters can create a beautiful display that stands a little frost; the colder the better the colour.

Robert talked about more flowers and answered questions such a beetle problem on hibiscus. (Robert uses a hanging trap with pheromones; the beetles fall into a plastic bag which is disposed of after a few weeks.) Robert’s love of plants was evident. For the last few years Robert has given regular presentations, open to the public, in the “Gingko Room" at the Artistic nursery. All left hoping to see similarly spectacular blooms in their own gardens.

The next meeting of the Old Ottawa South Garden Club will be in September 2016 at the Old Ottawa South Community Centre (The Firehall), 260 Sunnyside Avenu. Watch for announcements in the late summer. Happy gardening over the summer!

Hello to all gardeners in the Ottawa Valley!!! A brief introduction to us.

We are the Old Ottawa South Garden Club 

We are associated with The Old Ottawa South Community Association and our program can be found quarterly in their Program Guide - We are on page 29 or their Spring 2017 Program 

http://www.oldottawasouth.ca/programs/spring-2017-program-guide/file 

Meetings are held :  Ottawa South Community Centre 
       (aka The Firehall)   at  260 Sunnyside Avenue.
Monthly : Second Monday of the month
 (exceptions: June/July/August = no meetings//October date differs)
Time : 7:00—9:00 P.M.
Membership : $25 per year; $40 for a family
Drop-in fee : $7 per meeting.
Information Contact : Ottawa South Community Centre -  613 247 4946

Old Ottawa South Garden Club members represent a mix of beginners and more experienced gardeners, with gardens that range from pot-filled apartment balconies to professionally landscaped lots. We share the passion, curiosity, frustration, and pleasure of this pastime